Newsletter of Hiking New Zealand - No. 13

Leah World's Birding Down Under Expedition

Kia Ora,
You’re about to embark on the journey of a lifetime to isolated, uninhabited islands which support a unique variety of plants and animals. Welcome to the Sub Antarctic Islands of New Zealand and Australia. 19 days of opportunity and amazement. I hope you enjoy the voyage. Leah.

Day 1. December 12th
My journey begins in Dunedin, in the foyer of a hotel, where I scan the room for others who may be about to join the voyage. My initial thoughts and judgements are cast aside once I meet and talk with the other passengers over dinner. I realise quickly that while the predominant motivation to join the expedition is ‘birding’, there are as many different personal reasons as there are birds in the Sub Antarctics – and that, I am about to find out, is A LOT!

Day 2. December 13th
We board the Spirit of Enderby at 8:30am. We have some time to get acquainted with the ship, and before we know it, we are steaming towards the open ocean through the calm Otago Harbour. We are introduced to staff and safety aspects of the ship in the lecture room.

Strange feelings of excitement, nervousness and bewilderment rush over me as we pass Tairoa Heads. I attempt to take notice of the albatross and shag colonies, but secretly I wonder how I will cope with the next 18 days of adventure. As the journey begins I make a point of staying outside, as I’ve been advised that this is the best way to overcome seasickness. It is one of my biggest concerns – having never spent any extended period on a boat.

We are briefed on the use of the Naiad boats and our visit to Snares Island scheduled for tomorrow, and I’m excited at the prospect of wildlife close up.

Day 3. December 14th
We are divided into two groups for the zodiac cruise of Snares Island. I rug up, after a warning that the earlier group have got wet and battled through some rough weather crossing between Broughton Island and the mainland. The weather has improved, and although it is still foggy, the wind has dropped and as we move into Station Cove we are surrounded by smells and sounds of the Snares crested penguins. In the channels that sneak off the cove we see fur seals, sealions, an elephant seal, tomtits, a grey-tailed tattler, Antarctic terns and a two fernbirds. We 90 minutes on the sea, ducking in and out of the waterways and sea caves of Snares Island and return to the ship with a renewed enthusiasm. If this is half of what I can expect from the other islands, I am even more anxious to explore them after this morning’s ride.

We depart for the Auckland Islands, where we are due to arrive tomorrow morning. Delicious soup is served for lunch, which I genuinely enjoy and keep down. When we boarded the ship in Dunedin, we were given a huge packet of information and books that I read this afternoon, and pretend to not notice the rolling of the ship as it increases over the day.

Day 4. December 15th
We arrived at Sandy Bay of Enderby Island, a sheltered bay lined with sea lions, at around 4am this morning. Further around the coastline, huge basalt columns rise from the sea, demonstrating early the diversity that this island will portray. The naiad ride to the shore is brief and our landing is a wet one – gumboots are highly recommended.

We start our walk past the Hooker sealions up a small track towards a boardwalk. The ground is mostly peat, so is extremely soft underfoot and covered with liverworts. After two days on the ship, I was looking forward to the comfort of solid ground, but the soft, spongy feel of the peat is quite unusual. The boardwalk keeps us on track to the north of the island; along the way we see some albatross nesting, and on the cliffs on the northern coast, Light-mantled sooty albatross and shags nest. The more I walk and the more I see, the more I feel like I am somehow intruding. The trees are small and windswept and the megaherbs are phenomenal – whole fields of colourful flowers, looking like they’ve been drawn for a fairytale picture book. I expect to see fairies under the leaves, or goblins living in the undergrowth of the dwarf rata that create an endless village of intertwining branches. Leading the way are dotterels, and pipits in large numbers. Yellow-eyed penguins are scattered around the island. They nest in solitary places, watching us with curiosity and caution.

Rain started falling soon after I stopped at Derry Castle reef for lunch and by the time I get back to Sandy Bay it is falling heavily and most people are soaked through – the true meaning of ‘waterproof’ is discovered. We warm up in no time after returning to the ship, with another hot, sumptuous meal for dinner.

Day 5. December 16th
This morning, we are in the calm Carnley Harbour, which we steamed slowly into at around 6am. After two hours of travel, we anchor below an appropriately named, Fairchild’s Garden. As we board the zodiacs, rain becomes constant and many wonder what they’ve got themselves in for. We land and hop across some rocks, then uphill for about 45 minutes, pushing away scrub and tussock. Pigs still roam Auckland Island and cause problems for albatross nesting, so the albatross have taken to nesting in the sides of cliff faces. Since the pigs can’t access this area, the megaherbs also survive, giving the albatross a colourful sanctuary in which to build their nests. We sit in the rain, watching the albatross arranging their nests, adding finishing touches. A small group of us head further uphill to a tussock plateau where we are lucky enough to see a few Gibson’s wandering albatross dotted across the tussock. We meet up with the others and make our way back down the muddy pig track to the naiads. It has been a dirty adventure and we return to the ship with mud up to our knees, but it has been a fun and successful morning.

The sun pokes through the clouds and makes the stern a very relaxing place to be. The coastline of Auckland Island is undulating and there are obvious signs of glaciation, with waterfalls dropping from great heights in U-shaped valleys over sheer cliff faces to the ocean. The sun gets brighter and more and more birds appear, soaring high above, behind and beside the ship. I feel like I’ve been transported to some mystical land where birds are the only creatures that exist. I see penguins porpoising and laugh at their quirky movements. I listen to my iPod and am surprised to realise that the birds are flying in perfect time with my music. In the soundtrack that plays around me seven species of albatross soar, petrels glide and dive, shearwaters float and prions flap; and at one moment there are 15 different species of birds flying in view. I change the music, and find that it doesn’t matter what tune is on, these birds are so in tune with the world and the ocean that they create their own symphony.

After dinner I’m thinking about my amazing experience today and hearing the birders talk, I come to appreciate what a spectacular display I witnessed this afternoon. We are getting noticeably further south now, as the clock hits 10:30pm it still appears daylight outside. I can sleep though, having a clear head after a peaceful day.

Day 6. December 17th
A full day at sea today, so I load my brain with information on the geology and wildlife of Macquarie Island this morning, and learn some birding tips from the experts.

The first call of “whale” across the public address system comes during the morning, and with it, almost a stampede. People relaxing in their cabins, in the library and on deck, rush forward to see the impeccable mammals up close. Spotted at a distance, we are fortunate enough to see four Southern bottle-nose whales, and then not long later, four strapped-tooth whales. One dives close to the ship and its huge size is all of a sudden very real.

I enjoy some great conversations with other passengers today, some in depth, some very funny, but all giving me a sense of feeling part of this great journey. Gradually I’m getting to know everyone on the ship and truly enjoying the experience.

Day 7. December 18th
We arrived at Buckles Bay on the northern end of Macquarie Island around midnight. Before breakfast, our crew have been to pick up the rangers who will accompany us on the island, then we made a short trip down the coast to Sandy Bay. As we wait on the gangway, we see orcas playing, probably sniffing around for food, close to the shoreline. Approaching the shore in the naiad, already I am bewildered. Nothing could have prepared me for this sight.

Casually it seems, passengers disembark the naiads, but are quickly taken aback as they step onto the dark, course sand, by the sheer number of penguins, stretching as far along the coastline in both directions as they can see. Scattered between groups of penguins, elephant seals gather; some to sleep, some to claim their spot on the beach, and others that simply seem to emanate their sounds and smells entirely for our entertainment. Occasionally curious pairs of king penguins approach me as I sit in the sand, and as these beautifully coloured creatures get nearer they look less and less real.

In the afternoon, I walk to the royal penguin colony. To look at the big picture, it appears that the birds are living harmoniously, but when I look at individuals, I notice there is a lot of bickering going on. After their climb uphill from the beach, they are pecked and squawked at by other birds upon entering the colony. I can’t tell if it’s a sign of welcome, a threat, or otherwise. It is an interesting environment and it captivates me for almost an hour. Two birds snuggle close to the boardwalk, preening one another, sheltering their faces in each other’s feathers and it looks like it must be love. I enjoy my last moments on the beach, sitting alone, contemplating this spectacle of nature. I think about the quote written on our schedule for today, by founder of the Wilderness Society, Robert Marshall,
“All of man’s ingenuity could not create anything equal to the world of untamed wilderness.”

Day 8. December 19th
Our zodiac cruise this morning is cancelled, because fog is heavy at Lusitania Bay. We are shuttled to shore in the zodiacs, where the rangers take us on a guided walking tour of the Isthmus. We step carefully to avoid the elephant seals in the long grass. We are able to view up close the Gentoo penguins, one Rockhopper penguin high on a rocky cliff and the Macquarie shag. Old whaling and sealing equipment remains at Macquarie Island and it is odd to see the elephant seals almost snuggling up to the machinery that once could have wiped out the species. Every building is fenced off to avoid bombardment by elephant seals, a good idea since the males can reach weights up to 3.6 tonnes!

We are invited to the island’s station to enjoy morning tea, and a few people notice a strange phenomenon occurring when we are inside. A kind of reverse sea-sickness is taking hold and we feel as though the room is swaying from side to side. We have a late lunch on board as we set sail for Campbell Island. It is a long stretch until our next landfall, and the seas get a little rougher than we’ve experienced before.

Day 9. December 20th
At sea all day today. The weather is looking gloomy and we still have a good rolling swell on the nose. It is foggy and I deem the day to be an “inside day”.

We have the Campbell Island briefing late in the afternoon, and I’m looking forward to walking tomorrow.

Day 10. December 21st
We found our way into Perseverance Harbour early this morning. Twelve of us are signed up for the long walk, and we get underway quickly after packing up our lunch and jumping in the naiads for a short trip to the old Met Station wharf. Our long walk to Northwest Bay starts easily, and we drop into a small cove where a sick old elephant seal lies resting on the shore. In Tucker Cove – huge Pleurophyllum criniferum with dark maroon coloured flowers flourish. The walk alternates between boardwalked sections, tussocky tracks, to short scrub we have to push through. We climb to a ridge that gives us fabulous views to both Perseverance Harbour and the more rugged west coast. We follow the ridge spotting Antarctic terns, giant petrel chicks and Southern royal albatross nests as we walk through fabulously abundant megaherb fields. We sit on a rocky beach in Capstan Cove, eat lunch and soak up the beautiful surroundings.

The next cove, Middle Bay, provides another great spot to sit in soft leafy grass and marvel at the wonder of nature. We watch a lone yellow-eyed penguin and two seals playing in the waves.

After a long day on my feet, I am tired at the end of the day, but feel refreshed after the great views, good company and incredible wildlife I have once again been lucky enough to encounter. We leave for the Antipodes Islands at 8:30, after another sensational dinner. I walk up to the top deck and it’s windy and cold, but very refreshing. It’s nice to feel that cold burst before crawling into bed and falling asleep as soon as my head hits the pillow.

Day 11. December 22nd
I spend most of the morning chatting to a passenger who has become a good friend, a 65 year old lady from England. The older passengers on board inspire me. They love their lives of travel and adventure and they remind me that I don’t need to worry about rushing through my dreams to fulfil them all immediately.

I spend the afternoon sifting through photographs, reading, listening to music, thinking about how this expedition will affect my life. Right before dinner, the call of ‘whales’ comes over the address system there are four or five sperm whales around the ship between 100 and 200 metres away. As we near one whale, it dives under us, disappearing into the deep ocean, with barely a splash.

In the late evening, I take the opportunity to go to the bird count, a discussion by the bird-watchers on how many of each different species have been seen. Since the bird count is not being done for research or statistical purposes, accuracy is not paramount. The enjoyment comes from sitting and waiting to be able to say you’ve seen a bird that no-one else has.

Day 12. December 23rd
This morning we have our briefings on the Antipodes and Bounty Island groups. We arrive at the Antipodes at around 2:30pm, surrounded by heavy fog, and we are unable to see the island. In the naiads, the water shows a brilliant deep blue, the kelp is spectacularly long, and the rocks are impressively shaped. Erect crested and rockhopper penguins and fur seals share the rock space, and we attempt to see the elusive Antipodes Island parakeets. These islands are the world’s main breeding site for the endemic Antipodes wandering albatross, and also breeding grounds for black-browed and white-capped mollymawks, light-mantled sooty albatross, grey petrel, fairy prion and little shearwater, black-bellied storm petrel, diving petrel, sooty shearwater, grey-backed storm petrel, New Zealand snipe, skua, Antarctic terns and Antarctic prion. With no introduced mammals except house mice, little threat exists for the birds.

After finding the ship again in the fog with the sound of the foghorn, we head to the Bounty Islands late this afternoon.

Day 13. December 24th
It is raining when we cruise in the naiads this morning, but there are great views of islands. The ship is totally surrounded by Salvins albatross and I assume that the birds must be feeding on something nearby. On the rocky, barren islands fur seals breed and we see some small pups. There is concern by conservation groups that the seals are taking over Salvin’s albatross and erect crested penguin breeding grounds. After a rainy morning on the naiad, we are now on our way to the final destination, the Chatham Islands, two days sailing from the Bounty group.

This afternoon I watch a documentary in the lecture room on the recovery of the Chatham Island black robin. It is an inspirational story of how one man’s passion and dedication changed the fate of a species. Just goes to show that you can change the world, even on your own.

We decorate the bar and dining room, in preparation for Christmas Day, a great ‘family’ experience. An entry-level birding lecture is held at night, and I attend, eager to continue learning. We are given some great tips on identification and groupings of birds. It is a relaxed and interactive lecture, as the whole voyage has been, and it’s a pleasure to be taught by people who are so passionate both about the birds and the islands they inhabit.

Day 14. December 25th
As if on cue, we are blessed today with a warm breeze as we walk out on the stern for our 8am practical birding class. A few of us have dressed up for Christmas Day, donning sensible footwear (gumboots) with our best outfits. We are laughed at, but are sure that it will be something the other passengers will remember. An ornithologist gives us the quick-fire identification tips for sea birds. The sun is shining by 10am, and clouds are scattering. We circle the Pyramid, the first land mass we pass by. Upon leaving the Pyramid, the Expedition leader encourages birds to fly close by throwing squid into the water behind the ship. Graceful, elegant, majesty turns to scavenging, with Chatham, Pacific and Northern royal albatross species diving and grabbing at the food. We drop anchor at Thornis Bay on South East Island, where the weather has miraculously changed from heavy fog and mist a day ago, to brilliant blue skies and scorching sunshine today. Our zodiac cruise is scheduled for tomorrow morning, but since the weather is so nice and we’re a little ahead of schedule, it is announced that it will be run this afternoon. On the naiad, we are able to see Pitt Island shags, tuis, parakeets and more oystercatchers and shore plovers.

We ready ourselves for Christmas dinner, a feast we are anticipating with much anxiety. To our surprise, the staff makes rounds with a gift for each passenger, a treat far beyond expectation.

After dinner a group of us head up to the top deck to make the day last as long as possible. The sky is still clear, and we witness the most phenomenal display of stars. It is the time when I realise that the journey is having an amazing impact on me. I am thoroughly enjoying ship life and the relationships that I have formed with other people on board.

Day 15. December 26th
No schedule is given out for today, and the staff announce that it will be an “Expedition Day”, with no set program. It is decided that we will head to the Star Keys, then out to the Forty-fours. The Forty-fours are an island group to the east of Chatham Island – the eastern most point of New Zealand territory. After skirting the Forty-fours, we head northwest back towards Matarakau, past the fishing village of Kaingaroa on the north east tip of Chatham.

After anchoring, we cruise the coast to see Chatham Island and Pitt Island shags. The swell has risen and it’s a bouncy ride. Getting on and off gangway is difficult, with the swell rising about 2 metres. The sailors have a knack for holding onto the rope as the naiad rises and drops away from the gangway platform, and getting us safely on and off the boats.

I spend the afternoon sitting on the stern, watching the birds and listening to music. It surprises me how captivated I am with their movements. I think about how amazing it is to be in such a confined space like a ship, yet spend so much time alone.

Day 16. December 27th
We step onto the wharf at Waitangi around 7:30 this morning. Local school buses drive us across the green farmlands of Chatham Island to the Tuku Nature Reserve. We are guided through the reserve, looking out for our target birds - Chatham Island pigeon and grey warbler – and we are successful! Enjoying great views of the ocean from great vantage points along the walk, we lap up the sunshine and admire the forest.

After our few-hour walk, we meet up with the others, who opted for a short walk. The Chatham Island pub has a great deck, where we relax together, feeling slightly strange about being back in the civilian world. It is still sunny on return to the ship, so we sit on the top deck, until the ship makes its way out of the heads. The sea is rough out here, and the wind picks up as we make our course for Dunedin – two and a half days away.

Day 17. December 28th
We are fortunate to see around nine sperm whale within 30 minutes today. They appear to be undisturbed by us and they swim close to the ship on the starboard side. Myself and seven other passengers who joined the voyage as scholarship recipients share our thoughts with other passengers. Each speech is very different but all have a personal spin and, no doubt will lead us to different outcomes.

Day 18. December 29th
Final our day at sea, we have perfect conditions. Shortly after breakfast a group gathers on the bow, dressed in beach attire, laughing and enjoying our final moments together. When I get some time to myself I write a poem, that I later share with the other passengers about how I’ve felt on board.

After lunch, we all gather together for the Expedition recap. Stories are told and everyone laughs as we recall the fantastic journey we have shared. Slowly I pack my bags, ready to disembark tomorrow morning. I go slow to avoid the realisation that I won’t be going to sleep with the rocking of the seas, the gentle hum of the engine. Tomorrow it’s back to the real world and I need to shift my thinking back to the routine of work and suburban living. It will be tough, as this has been the voyage of a lifetime.

Day 19. December 30th
We arrive into port at around 7:30 this morning, and we say our goodbyes as we board buses. It is quiet as we pull away. I’m sure everyone feels the same.

Preceding Newsletters

• Wilderness News - December 2004
• Wilderness News - September 2003
• Newsletter : No. 10 - July 2002